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Windows & Ventilation

Cutting holes in your van without crying. Fixed, sliding, and fan windows.

Beginner⏱ 10 min read

Contents

1

Do You Actually Need Windows?

Controversial opinion: most people fit too many windows.

Windows are good for:

•Natural light (saves battery power)
•Ventilation (if they open)
•Not feeling like you're in a coffin
•Resale value (looks like a proper camper)

Windows are bad for:

•Privacy (everyone can see in → curtains needed)
•Insulation (glass is terrible for heat retention)
•Security (break-in points)
•Cost (£100-300 per window)
•They're permanent — once you've cut the hole, that's it

What we recommend:

•1-2 sliding windows on the side (for ventilation)
•1 roof vent (MaxxFan or Dometic — non-negotiable)
•That's it. Don't go window-crazy.

**Stealth consideration:** If you want to stealth camp (park in residential areas without looking like a camper), fewer windows = more stealth.

2

Window Types

Fixed windows:

•Don't open (obviously)
•Cheapest option (£80-150)
•Good for light, not ventilation
•Bonded directly to the van body

Sliding windows:

•Open by sliding sideways
•Most popular choice
•Can have fly screens built in
•Cost: £150-300 per window
•Seitz/Dometic is the standard brand

Hinged/awning windows:

•Open outward on hinges
•Better seal than sliding
•Can catch wind if left open while driving
•Cost: £200-350

Tinted vs clear:

•Tinted for privacy (you can see out, harder to see in)
•Clear for maximum light
•Most people go tinted for side windows

Double glazing:

•Worth it if you're full-time
•Significant condensation reduction
•More expensive (£300-500 per window)
•Heavier
3

How to Fit a Window (The Scary Bit)

Tools needed:

•Jigsaw with metal-cutting blade
•Drill with step drill bit (for starter hole)
•File (for cleaning edges)
•Sikaflex 512 or similar adhesive sealant
•Masking tape, marker, measuring tape

Steps:

1. **Mark the cut line** from inside. Use the window frame as a template. Double-check measurements. Triple-check.
2. **Drill starter holes** in each corner (inside the cut line)
3. **Cut with jigsaw** — go slow, use cutting fluid, wear ear defenders (it's LOUD)
4. **File the edges** smooth. Any sharp edge = rust starting point
5. **Prime the bare metal** with zinc primer or similar
6. **Apply Sikaflex** around the opening (generous bead)
7. **Press the window in** and hold with tape/clamps while it cures
8. **Seal the outside** with another bead of Sikaflex
9. **Let it cure** for 24 hours before driving

Common mistakes:

•Cutting too big (measure TWICE, cut ONCE)
•Not priming bare metal (rust within months)
•Using cheap sealant (leaks in the first rain)
•Not supporting the cut-out panel (it drops and scratches the paint)
4

Roof Vents (The Most Important Opening)

**A roof vent is the single most important thing you can cut into your van.** It provides:

•Constant ventilation (even with windows closed)
•Extraction of cooking smells and moisture
•Air circulation on hot days
•A place to mount a fan

The options:

MaxxFan Deluxe (£250-350):

•The gold standard
•Built-in fan (intake and exhaust)
•Rain sensor (closes automatically)
•Remote control
•Can run while driving
•Fits standard 400x400mm roof opening

Dometic Fan-Tastic (£200-300):

•Similar to MaxxFan
•Good quality, slightly cheaper
•Less features in base model

Budget option — just a skylight (£80-150):

•Opens for ventilation but no fan
•Fine if you're on a tight budget
•Add a USB fan inside for circulation

Installation:

Same process as windows — cut hole, seal, screw down. But the roof is curved, so you may need to build a flat frame with Sikaflex to get a good seal. This is where most leaks happen, so take your time and use plenty of sealant.

**Pro tip:** Fit the vent over the kitchen area. It extracts cooking steam and heat where you need it most.

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